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Solar Installation: what to ask, what it costs, and one number to call

Updated June 2026 · By the Mobile Phonebook editorial team · How we research pricing

Quick answer: Get connected by phone with a solar installation company for rooftop panels, batteries, and system quotes. Typical jobs run $150 – $40,000 depending on scope (full breakdown). One free call to (800) 555-0199 connects you with a local solar installer after you enter your ZIP.
One number for solar installation (800) 555-0199

Enter your ZIP when prompted · Availability varies by area · Calls are free to you; the independent provider who answers may pay us for the connection. How we make money.

Residential solar means panels on your roof turning sunlight into electricity you'd otherwise buy from the utility, often paired with a battery these days. The technology is mature and the panels themselves are commodities. What varies wildly is how systems are sold and financed, and that's where homeowners win or lose. The same hardware can be a solid 25-year investment or a contract you regret by year three, depending entirely on the deal structure.

One thing to know before any sales call in 2026: the federal residential solar tax credit (the 30% Residential Clean Energy Credit) ended for systems placed in service after December 31, 2025. Purchased home systems installed in 2026 generally don't get it. Leases and power purchase agreements can still capture a separate commercial credit, but for the company, not you, which is exactly why lease and PPA pitches have gotten louder. That asymmetry shapes every sales conversation you'll have, so read the lease section below before you sign anything.

What should you have ready before you call?

  • Pull your last 12 months of electric bills (or your utility's usage download). Annual kilowatt-hours is the number every honest quote starts from.
  • Know your roof's age and material; if it needs replacing within ~10 years, plan to reroof first.
  • Note your roof's main directions and shading. South-facing and unshaded is ideal, and heavy tree cover changes the math.
  • Check your utility's current net-metering or solar export policy, since it drives savings more than panel brand does.
  • Decide your financing lane before the pitch: cash, loan, or open to lease/PPA. Know that lease math needs total-term comparison.
  • If you're in an HOA or historic district, check their solar rules and approval process.
  • Set your skepticism level: any 'free solar' or 'the government pays for it' opener in 2026 is misleading on its face.

What should you ask before hiring? The 9-question script

This is your script. Nobody expects you to be an expert. Sound like someone who asks the right questions, and anyone good will answer all of these without flinching.

Is this a purchase, a lease, or a PPA? If it's not a purchase, who owns the system and what happens when I sell the house?

The single most important question in solar. Lease/PPA contracts run 20–25 years and must be assumed by your buyer or bought out at sale. Make the rep state the ownership structure plainly before anything else.

What's the total system price in dollars and dollars per watt? For a lease or PPA, what are the total payments over the full term?

Per-watt pricing (commonly around $2.40–$3.40/W before incentives in 2026) lets you compare quotes. For leases, the monthly number is bait; the 25-year total with escalators is the real price. Make them print it.

Is there an annual payment escalator, and what percentage?

The lease gotcha. A 2.9% annual escalator compounds to roughly double the payment by year 25. If utility rates rise slower than your escalator, your 'savings' invert mid-contract.

What production estimate are you using, what assumptions is it built on, and is there a production guarantee?

You want the modeled annual kWh, the shading analysis behind it, and ideally a written production guarantee with compensation if the system underperforms. Savings projections without visible assumptions are sales art.

Given that the federal residential tax credit ended for 2026 installs, what incentives actually apply to me, and can you show me where to verify them?

Tests honesty directly. The 30% federal credit is gone for purchased systems placed in service after 2025; anyone claiming otherwise is misinformed or lying. State, local, and utility incentives may still apply. Verify each one yourself before it shapes your decision.

Who actually installs, your employees or subcontractors, and who services the system in year 10?

Solar sales orgs frequently subcontract installation. You want to know which company holds the workmanship warranty and whether it has a service department and a local history, because the industry has seen plenty of installers disappear mid-warranty.

What are the warranties (panels, inverter, workmanship, roof penetrations), and what's the roof-leak coverage?

Panels commonly carry 25-year product/performance warranties; inverters 10–25. Workmanship varies most and matters most. Roof-penetration leak coverage in writing is the one homeowners wish they'd asked about.

Will you assess my roof's remaining life, and what does removal and reinstallation cost if I reroof later?

R&R typically costs thousands. An installer who quotes panels onto a 17-year-old roof without raising this is optimizing for their commission, not your decade.

If I don't sign today, does this price change?

Solar's in-home pitches use the same 'today-only' pressure as windows and baths. Real quotes survive a week and a competing bid. Treat countdown pricing as disqualifying.

How much does solar installation cost in 2026?

Purchased systems are priced per watt installed; 2026 residential pricing mostly runs $2.40–$3.40 per watt before any incentives. Note that the 30% federal residential credit no longer applies to systems placed in service after 2025, so compare quotes on gross price.

Typical jobNational rangeWhat moves the price
Purchased system, per watt installed$2.40 – $3.40 per WEquipment tier, roof complexity, and the seller's sales-channel overhead drive the spread
Typical 7 kW system, purchased$17,000 – $24,000Suits many average-usage homes; no federal credit for 2026 installs
Larger 10–12 kW system, purchased$24,000 – $40,000High-usage homes, EVs, heat pumps push system size
Home battery, installed (one unit)$9,000 – $18,000Capacity and brand; more valuable where outages are common or export rates are poor
Lease / PPA$0 down; ~$80 – $250+/moRead the escalator and term; total 25-year payments often rival or exceed purchase price
Panel removal + reinstall for reroofing$3,000 – $10,000Why roof age comes before panels, always
Main panel upgrade (if required)$1,500 – $4,500Older 100A panels sometimes need upgrading for solar or batteries
System inspection / health check (existing system)$150 – $400Worth it when buying a home with panels or diagnosing low production

These are typical 2026 U.S. ranges for planning purposes; your market, season and job specifics can land outside them. Always get the price for your job confirmed on the call and in writing. Ranges compiled June 2026 from national cost data and industry sources (methodology).

When you don't need to call anyone

We get paid when you call, so take this section as seriously as we do. Sometimes the honest answer is that you can handle it yourself or fix it cheaper first:

  • Low electric bill (roughly under $75 a month)? The payback math rarely works. Insulation, air sealing, LED lighting, and a heat pump beat panels dollar-for-dollar.
  • Roof shaded most of the day, or due for replacement within about five years? Fix those facts first. Panels on a dying roof have to come off and go back on at your expense.
  • Renting, or moving within a few years? Skip rooftop ownership. Community solar programs, where available, get you cheaper power without installing anything.
  • The door-to-door 'free solar' pitch is a lease or PPA that usually saves less than buying and can complicate a home sale. Never sign at the door; competing quotes cost nothing.

How the solar business works

There are three ways to get panels on your roof. Cash or loan purchase: you own the system, all the savings, and the maintenance. Lease: a company owns the system on your roof and you pay a fixed (often annually escalating) monthly fee. Power purchase agreement (PPA): the company owns the system and sells you its output per kilowatt-hour, usually below utility rates at signing, also often with an annual escalator. Ownership generally builds the most value. Leases and PPAs trade long-term value for zero money down, and they're where most of the horror stories live: 20–25 year terms, payment escalators of around 1–3% a year that can outrun utility-rate growth, and real friction when you sell the house, since the buyer must qualify for and assume the contract or you must buy it out.

The sales economics explain the pressure. Much of residential solar is sold by commissioned reps and third-party dealer networks, where the rep's pay is built into your price, sometimes thousands of dollars per deal. That's why door-knockers and 'your neighborhood was selected' pitches exist, and why quotes for identical systems vary so much. Since the residential tax credit ended, third-party ownership (lease/PPA) lets the installer's financing partner claim a commercial tax credit on the system instead, so many companies now steer hard toward leases. The steer may or may not suit you. Run the math on total payments over the full term versus buying.

Savings claims deserve permanent skepticism. Real savings depend on your actual usage, your utility's rates and its net-metering or export-credit policy (which varies enormously by state and keeps changing), your roof's orientation and shading, and the system's production over time. A trustworthy proposal shows the assumptions: production estimate from standard modeling, your last 12 months of usage, the utility's current export rates, and a conservative rate-escalation assumption. A glossy chart showing you 'saving $80,000 over 25 years' with no visible assumptions is marketing, not math.

Practical sequencing matters: your roof comes first. Panels last 25+ years. If your roof has less than 10 years left, reroof before installing, because removing and reinstalling a system later costs thousands. A good installer evaluates the roof honestly and walks away from bad ones. Also expect permits, utility interconnection paperwork, and an inspection. Competent installers handle all of it, and the wait for utility permission-to-operate can add weeks after install.

Red flags & good signs

Red flags

  • 'Free solar,' 'no-cost program,' or 'the government pays for your panels.' In 2026 there is no federal residential credit for new purchased installs, and 'free' always means a lease or PPA with a 20–25 year contract.
  • Won't show the lease escalator, the full-term payment total, or the buyout schedule
  • Savings projections with no visible assumptions about your usage, your utility's export rates, or rate growth
  • Today-only pricing, or 'your neighborhood was selected for a special program.' That's manufactured urgency on a 25-year decision.
  • Quoting panels onto an old roof without assessing remaining roof life or disclosing removal/reinstall costs
  • Sales company won't say who actually installs or who handles warranty service in future years
  • Pushes you to sign a digital contract on a tablet during the first visit before you've seen the full document

Good signs

  • Starts from your actual 12-month usage and shows the production model's assumptions, shading analysis included
  • Quotes in dollars per watt, itemizes equipment by brand and model, and the price holds for weeks
  • Gives you straight answers on ownership structure, escalators, and home-sale implications without dancing
  • Assesses your roof honestly, including telling you to reroof first, or that solar doesn't pencil for your house
  • Established local installation and service operation, not just a sales office, with workmanship and roof-penetration warranties in writing

Frequently asked questions

How much do solar panels cost in 2026?
Most purchased residential systems run $2.40–$3.40 per watt installed, so a typical 7 kW system lands around $17,000–$24,000 and larger 10–12 kW systems run $24,000–$40,000 before any incentives. Batteries add roughly $9,000–$18,000 per unit. Since the federal residential credit ended for 2026 installs, compare quotes on the gross price.
Is the solar tax credit still available in 2026?
The 30% federal Residential Clean Energy Credit ended for systems placed in service after December 31, 2025, under the 2025 tax law, so purchased home systems installed in 2026 generally don't qualify. Leased and PPA systems may still let the owning company claim a separate commercial credit, which is partly why lease pitches have intensified. State, local, and utility incentives vary. Check current programs for your area, and verify anything a salesperson claims.
Is leasing solar panels a good idea?
Sometimes, but go in clear-eyed: you don't own the system, terms run 20–25 years with annual payment escalators commonly around 1–3%, and selling your home requires the buyer to assume the contract or you to buy it out. Total lease payments over the term often rival or exceed what buying would have cost. If you can't or don't want to buy, a lease can still beat doing nothing, but only after you've seen the full-term payment total and escalator in writing.
Do solar panels really save money?
They can. The honest answer depends on your electric rates, usage, roof, and your utility's policy for crediting exported power, which varies hugely by state. Strong cases: high utility rates, good sun, favorable export credits, and you own the system. Weak cases: low rates, shaded roofs, poor export policies, or a lease whose escalator outruns rate growth. Make any quote show its assumptions, and run a competing quote against it.
Should I replace my roof before going solar?
If the roof has less than about 10 years of life left, yes. Panels last 25+ years, and removing and reinstalling a system to reroof later typically costs $3,000–$10,000. Any installer worth hiring assesses roof age before designing a system. Some homeowners bundle reroof-plus-solar into one project to align the lifespans.
How long do solar panels last?
Quality panels are typically warrantied for 25 years and commonly keep producing beyond that, degrading slowly at roughly half a percent of output per year. Inverters are the component more likely to need replacement, with warranties running 10–25 years depending on type. The workmanship warranty on the installation itself varies most between companies, so weigh it heavily.
What happens to solar panels when I sell my house?
An owned system transfers with the house like any improvement and can help resale. A leased or PPA system is a contract the buyer must qualify for and assume, or you pay a buyout, and it complicates closings often enough that it should factor into your decision now. If you might move within the contract term, get the transfer and buyout terms in writing before signing.
How long does solar installation take?
The physical install is usually 1–3 days. The whole process (site survey, design, permits, installation, inspection, and utility permission-to-operate) typically runs one to three months, with the utility paperwork often the slowest step. A good installer manages all of it and gives you a realistic timeline up front.

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